Some more recent Cote de Beaune reds!

And we're back! Happy new year. It was nice to celebrate Christmas with my mother, as opposed to the solitary 2020 version, and January has been pretty good too. My friend J from Grand Rapids was unexpectedly in London on New Year's Day and I was delighted to meet up even if only for an hour in Fortnums ice cream bar, where we got the new year off in style with a bottle of Billecart Salmon rose while her son enjoyed a design-your-own ice cream sundae. 

I also had a lovely meal at Bocca di Lupo with ACC and the Baron in the first week of January. I brought along a bottle of Meursault from Perrin, while ACC brought a Beaune from Domaine de la Roseraie and the Baron brought a bottle of La Dernier Goutte from Perrin. All three were excellent and the food at Bocca was great as ever, not to mention the celebrity-spotting opportunities. 

Anyway, down to business... some recent reds from the Cote de Beaune, all of which were kindly provided by G. 

This 2015 Monthelie from Domaine Roulot was, let's just say, not one of the highlights of the month. I usually love wines from this domaine, but this one was challenging, with lots of unresolved tannin and definitely still in its sulky adolescence phase. Just bad timing I suspect. G replaced it with some Warre 1970 which was absolutely wonderful.

And then on to the premier crus. First, this Beaune Bressandes 2018 from Henri Germain et Fils. This was quite a dark colour and looked glossy. I decanted it an hour in advance. It had a lovely nose with interesting dark fruit, and was silky but somewhat croquant. Loganberries were mentioned. There was  a lot of tannin, like 100% cocoa chocolate. We decided it needed another 15 years and gave it an 8. 

I have to admit I never get particularly excited at the prospect of a bottle of Savigny-les-Beaune, but this 1er cru Les Hauts Jarrons 2014 from Domaine de Bellene confounded my expectations. If I'd been drinking it blind, I wouldn't have guessed it was a Savigny as it didn't have the typical savoury notes, but was perfumed with sweet fruit, and surprisingly light with some cherries on the finish. It reminded me more of a Chorey or even a red Auxey. It was charming and we gave it a high 8. G told me that this domaine is the personal estate of Nicolas Potel and I see his wines are sold by BBR.

And finally, the other night we had this Volnay 1er cru Clos de la Rougeotte 2005 from Domaine Henri Boillot. This was fantastic. It had lovely fruit - blackberries, blackcurrants and redcurrants - and also some interesting other, wilder flavours. "It's got really exciting undergrowth" commented G. It was drinking perfectly now, and we felt it was as good as Volnay as you could hope for. Dix points! 

Recent drinking round-up!

Time for another catch-up on what's been drunk lately... one has to get through this interminable lockdown somehow! Here we have three blasts from the past and something new.

The other night, G cracked open a couple of wines from Domaine Parent, and it was fascinating to try them side by side.

The 2015 Bourgogne Rouge came in at a mere 12.5% and had a nose of raspberries and a certain earthiness reminiscent of Pommard. It was lighter than I expected, and very drinkable, the kind of wine I think of as being good with lunch. Not what I was necessarily expecting based on the old days when we used to drink a lot of it.

The 2013 Monthelie came in at 13% and had an attractive, slightly musky nose. It was juicy with a high level of acidity and also seemed light, fruity and young. It opened up after a few minutes and with hindsight would have benefited from an hour in decanter. Apparently it was even better the next day!

Yesterday the weather was good enough for ACC and I to have a socially-distanced picnic in the nearby square. ACC had told me he was going to bring along the new gewurztraminer from Romain Chapuis, which was exciting. I wasn't really sure what food would go well with it, but it turned out that my duck and prune terrine was a very good match. It was a beautiful golden colour and had an aromatic gewurz nose but more subtle than some (no granny's handbag here). Apparently it's made from grapes grown in Alsace but Romain declassifies it so it's a Vin de France. I really liked the weight and richness of it, then discovered it clocks in at a whopping 14.5% so not like some of his other unsulphured wines. Definitely a bottle to share with others, and something a little bit different. The wine bars really ought to snap this up, once they're allowed to reopen...

My contribution was this Moulin-a-Vent Cuvee L'Exception 2011 from the Trichards, which we used to enjoy very much back in the day. A case was still lingering in storage and I had it delivered recently. It has matured very nicely and is still a wonderful bottle of Beaujolais, more on the serious side, and best served slightly chilled. As usual, my glass seemed to evaporate. A very pleasant way to spend a sunny afternoon!

Three more reds

Catching up on my notes over the past few weeks...

First up, this Monthelie Le Mons Helios 2009 from Florent Garaudet. I remembered being very impressed with this when we went to visit Florent a few years ago. I decanted it for 2 hours and stuck it in the fridge for a while. It was glossy, with a deep colour and rich nose. On the palate, it was smooth and powerful with lots of berries and cocoa. G found it chewy and it did coat the insides of my cheeks. It was remarkable that this was from Monthelie, not renowned for top notch wines. This actually reminded me of an international-style Volnay such as Clos des 60 Ouvrees. For a village Monthelie to taste like this was a resounding success, and it would last another five years. Definitely a wine to share with others.

Now for something slightly different... a Sonoma Zinfandel 2012 from Quivira. I'm pretty sure this was a random pick from the booze store in Pennsylvania. Can't check the price there at the moment due to website limitations, but wine.com suggests it was around $22. It was a dark purple colour and very glossy. It looked like port, smelled like port... Tasting it, it was big, sweet, rich and jammy, with dried currants and hints of fruit cake. G also detected a citrussy note. "I don't think there's any doubt about which continent it comes from" he said. There was some doubt as to whether we would be able to finish the bottle, but in the end it did make an excellent port substitute to go with cheese. At 14.5% I'm not sure I'll be rushing back for more.

Finally, a Morey-Saint-Denis "Les Crais-Gillon" 2014 from Odoul-Coquard, which G bought at auction. We used to drink a lot of their wine back in the day and I always loved them, so was looking forward to this. 

It was a lovely ruby colour and very inviting to look at.The nose was classic MSD, which I always refer to as black forest gateau - here there was morello cherry, blackcurrant and chocolate cake. It was congruent on the palate, succulent, with a lovely weight. G said it was "not an unrestrained wine", not as flashy as some from this domaine. He thought one might mistake it for a Vougeot. At only 13%, this was a real pleasure to drink..

Maison en Belles Lies, 29th October

We hopped back into Monsieur Parize's taxi and drove over to Saint-Aubin to Maison en Belles Lies. We were half an hour early but Pierre Fenals kindly interrupted his schedule to meet us earlier than anticipated.

The tasting was conducted entirely upstairs which meant no perilous trip down the spiral staircase on this occasion! The sun was shining in and gave the bottles a beautiful luminosity, but they were quite cold which made the tasting more challenging, for me.

Last year we only tasted 4 wines, as the vines were badly hit by hail, but this year there were a whopping 10. All the wines are biodynamic.

Starting with the whites, the Aligote was very pure with lively acidity, and the Bourgogne Blanc had a nice weight, was ripe and clean, like a baby St-Aubin. The Monthelie had good minerality and seemed very proper, the Santenay was approachable and I liked it a lot, and the Corton Charlemagne was top notch, lovely big wine with a wonderful finish.

Moving on to the reds, the Hautes Cote de Beaune was a bright red colour and had a fruity redcurrant nose, and was quite light and juicy on the palate. I found the Aloxe-Corton a bit tannic - although I am told that I may have been confusing tannin and acidity - I expect it just needs time. The village Maranges was easier to get on with and the premier cru Maranges was bigger and more powerful. Finally, the Corton Perrieres was silky, intense and had a lot going on - sous bois, leather, raspberries. I thought it would be sensational a few years down the road.

It appears that fans of L'Etrange will be disappointed as none was made in 2014 but Pierre made a lot in 2015 so that's certainly something to look forward to. Thanks to him for another great tasting.

I'd love one of these for AduV Towers

Recent drinking round-up, 5th Sept

It has been a quiet August on the drinking front, as G was away for two weeks and I managed a record-breaking 11 days on the wagon in his absence, With our livers now squeaky clean and raring to process some alcohol, I arranged for some wine to come out of storage.

Last Saturday I took this bottle of Oroncio Pouilly-Fume Les Palefreniers 2008 over to ACC's for lunch. It went down well. It's quite unusual, a sauvignon blanc given the full Burgundy treatment, and is rich and grapefruity and generally rather wonderful and delicious. I ordered it nearly 3 years ago at the Maison Romane dinner (here) and am very happy with it!

Then, on Sunday evening, to celebrate G's successful trip away, we had this 2008 Vosne-Romanee Aux Reas from Alain Guyard. I bought a case of this some time ago and noticed it was in two six-packs so thought it was time to see how it was getting on, and indeed I think it's starting to drink now. It was perhaps on the light side for a Vosne but none the worse for that.

As it was a bank holiday Monday, I made a terrine and we pushed the boat out with a bottle of 2006 Meursault 1er cru Gouttes d'Or from Moret-Nomine. I snapped this up in a recent bin-end sale from the Burgundy Portfolio and had slightly wondered if it might be over the hill, but no, it was fabulous! Big, rich and nutty, all the things I like about Meursault. It's certainly drinking now but there is no particular rush and I'm sure getting through the other 5 bottles won't pose any sort of problem.

Then, on Thursday, a last-minute arrangement was made for ACC to join us for dinner with a selection of goodies which had been presented to a certain restaurant earlier in the day. Who were we to turn down such an invitation? This proved a fascinating tasting as it enabled us to see how certain things are getting on and generally congratulate ourselves on previous purchases.

Starting with the whites, we tried a 2014 Bourgogne Blanc from Domaine Celine & Frederic Gueguen, who are based in Chablis. Although this wasn't a Chablis, G and I both thought it shared a similarity in style. It was quite brisk, with good minerality, and made a refreshing aperitif. although perhaps on the young side. While on the subject of Chablis, it was terrible to hear about the hailstorm which hit many of the vineyards a few days ago, just before the harvest, and our thoughts go out to the growers affected.

We moved on to the 2010 Meursault from Vincent Perrin, which is always an enjoyable drop, with good typicity. G and I are more familiar with the 2008 vintage which we think may be slightly heftier, but then 2008 was a great vintage for white burgundy. Guess they can't be like that all the time.

Then came a real show-stopper, this 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru En Remilly from Domaine Bouard-Bonnefoy. Comparisons were made to Batard-Montrachet. It had benefited from judicious use of oak and just generally came across as expensive and ambitious with a lovely weight and richness. I'm delighted to see that I have some of the 2012 in my cellar! We thought the 2011 was drinking now but might benefit from another year, which suggests that waiting five years is the way forward for these wines.

Of the reds, first we tried a 2011 Monthelie 1er cru Les Riottes from Florent Garaudet, which was very pure with juicy, clean fruit and showed that these wines need time to open up and reach their full potential. Then a 2010 Beaune 1er cru Les Reversees from Jean-Claude Rateau, which was a lovely, elegant expression of Beaune, but might be even better in a couple of years' time.

Finally, we tried this 2011 Morey-St-Denis from Domaine Audiffred. This was astonishing, with a nose of passionfruit, blackcurrant and possibly even mango. Normally I associate Morey with black forest gateau, but this was more like a tropical fruit pavlova. It was quite remarkable and we loved it.

Fascinating stuff and merci to ACC for sharing them with us!

Dinner at mine, 4th July

Last night, ACC and Baron McG came round for dinner at my place. G and I had revised the menu several times due to a massive heatwave earlier in the week - my garret penthouse flat tends to get quite hot at this time of year so I didn't want the oven blazing away all day. G had braved Borough Market very early to avoid the battalions of yummy mummies with double buggies (apparently the first one was sighted on the horizon just as he was leaving at 9.15) and had procured a variety of goodies for us, while I focused on important matters like playlist creation. As the hour of arrival approached, I had to restrain G from opening the aperitif too early.

This was a particularly enormous magnum of Laurent Perrier champagne, which G got at auction recently and judging by the other lots it was in with, thinks dates back to the mid-80s. It was so big it wouldn't fit in his fridge and it took considerable efforts to get it and a spare into mine. We then had the thorny question of how to keep it cool once open, as it wouldn't go in vertically. Between us we had the genius idea of using the slow cooker as an impromptu ice bucket, which worked very well.

The fizz was a beautiful golden colour and, to our relief, it was fine. In was old and rich and everything you want in a mature champagne - ACC described it as "seamless". It also went well with our starter of pate on toast. As my grill is out of action, G made the toast downstairs in his flat and brought it up to mine in a Planet Organic brown paper bag, which reminded some of us of a restaurant in Nuits-St-Georges where they used to serve the bread warm in a little paper bag. Maybe we need to start a supperclub.

Next up was this Meursault 1er cru Genevrieres 2006 from Bouzereau. I'm a big fan of the wines of this domaine, which we visited several years ago, but they're normally out of my price range so I was happy to pick up three bottles of this Meursault at an advantageous price at auction recently. G and I had already had one to make sure it was all right. It certainly was, and we think this bottle was even better. "Nectar!" say my over-excited notes. It was classic Meursault, big, fat and rich, but still with good acidity, and Baron McG detected caramel. It was fully mature and drinking very well now but the remaining bottle should be drunk soon. Next weekend, perhaps?

With this, G served some cold sea trout baked earlier in the day with ginger, lemon zest and sherry, along with a herbaceous salad, broadly following Nigel Slater's recipe here.

There was then a pause in the proceedings while we necked some of this Monthelie 2012 from Florent Garaudet, which ACC had brought back from his recent travels. This was already drinking well and I found it pleasingly savoury with a great finish.

Then, with the cheese course, we drank this Ladoix 1er cru Les Joyeuses 1986 from Caves des Paulands, which ACC had picked up in Beaune. There's always a risk with a bottle this old but the level was very good and it was still going strong after all this time. We had it slightly chilled and was piquant, with some black cherry going on. A rare find for the Premier Cru Project, as it was one we hadn't had before!

Then we moved on to this Banyuls 2010 Les Clos de Paulilles from Cazes provided by the Baron, who had picked it up at the estate while on a recent holiday. It reminded me of panettone on the nose, and was dense and intense, like fruit cake in a glass, but also with a certain chocolatiness. The Baron told us that the estate is right next to the Mediterranean, and that the wine is aged in glass demi-johns outside for 30 months. It's 17% alcohol. I can't say I've drunk a lot of Banyuls but this one seemed distinctly superior and went down very easily.

We rounded off with a glass of vieux Marc de Bourgogne from L'Heritier-Guyot. This was one of my finds in Antic Wines in Lyon, and although there was no obvious vintage on it, the chap there told us it was from 1950. He also pointed out that it was a litre bottle, and at that point I was sold. G and I motored through it very quickly when we got back from Lyon but left enough for this occasion. It seems that L'Heritier-Guyot are now primarily makers of cassis, so this is a little piece of history, and it's a very nice drop of old marc.

It was now 11.00 and G turned off the playlist allegedly to avoid complaints from the neighbours, but more probably to prevent any singing. It had been a lovely evening and various future plans were hatched which I hope will see the light of day in due course. Thanks to G for the food and the fizz, and to ACC and the Baron for your wines and company. Until next time!

New Year in Burgundy

After the tasting at Vincent Perrin's, we were collected by the trusty Alain le taxi and returned to Beaune to "faire les courses" as we were planning to hole up at the gîte the next day. A lot of shops were closed but we managed to get some croissants and had a trip to Alain Hess, the cheese shop on Place Carnot. The website is well worth a look with its entertainingly god-awful English translation. This is an amazing cheese shop complete with a laser-cutting device for the hard cheeses, an extraordinary piece of newfangled kit in a region where everything is so traditional. We picked up some additional items for the cheeseboard - in particular a Regal de Bourgogne which is an old favourite of mine. It's a triple creme cheese covered in raisins which have been soaked in marc. What's not to like?

For dinner, we had a roast chicken with potatoes and other vegetables, and to drink we had two 2007 premier cru red Chassagnes, brought by ACC, both by Ramonet but different Ramonets! The Clos Saint Jean on the left was Domaine Ramonet, while the Boudriotte on the right was from Noel Ramonet. Compare and contrast the labels below. They were both "tres Chassagne" but one was significantly bigger than the other, so we saved most of that for the cheese.

As it was New Year's Eve, we stayed up and watched some dreadful French TV. One channel was showing a mesmerising succession of acrobats and novelty acts. Baron McG said he didn't expect to see so many human pyramids in the rest of his life as he had done that evening. The highlight was undoubtedly the performing seals, which balanced balls on their noses, climbed ladders, swayed from side to side enthusiastically to the music, carried a small dog across the stage, were occasionally treated to a piece of fish, and seemed to be having a whale of a time (groan). Am sure it wouldn't be allowed in the UK which is a shame as it was completely brilliant.

A couple of minutes past midnight, there was a handful of desultory fireworks somewhere in Chorey. Not quite the big bang entrance for 2013 that I'm used to in London.

The next day, the weather was rubbish and we had no plans, so we stayed in. There was some excitement when we were cooking and the power went out twice, bringing Monsieur Martin up to the gite to find out what on earth we were getting up to. We all looked as innocent as possible, but I suspect two induction hobs and the oven all on at the same time had overloaded the system. Fortunately, power was swiftly restored and for lunch we had a baked Vacherin with some salad and Ratte potatoes, which was wonderful.

We had a leisurely afternoon reading, sleeping and/or watching the Madness of King George on DVD, and then for dinner I made chicken and mushroom soup with the remains of the chicken, and we had petit salé (pork with lentilles) out of a tin, which looked absolutely disgusting but was very tasty. To drink, we had a bottle of G's Chambolle Musigny 1er cru 2007 from Domaine Odoul-Coquard, and some Mas de Daumas Gassac '05 provided by Baron McG. I hadn't had any of this for ages and was reminded how much I liked it, which is almost certainly due to the high level of cabernet sauvignon.

It was G's and my last night at the gite so we stayed up for a while with the Baron and broached a bottle of 1966 marc de bourgogne from Jean Michelot which G had picked up from the Boutique des Domaines the previous day. We also conducted a comparative tasting of the red Pruneaux d'Agen Fourrés from Fortnums against the blue Pruneaux d'Agen Fourrés from Lakeland - the former won, not surprising as they're twice the price. It was agreed that the texture of the filling was altogether more satisfactory.

The next morning we took the taxi out to Monthelie, which is close to Meursault and also Auxey-Duresses. You can see Auxey on the right in this photo.

We were visiting Florent Garaudet, who struck me as another very passionate wine-maker. I found it quite hard tasting his wines as they were so young and built to last, but the red Monthelie 1er cru and above all the "Mons Helios" 2009 will be very impressive in a few years when the tannin has receded. Only a tiny quantity of the latter is made and the attention to detail is phenomenal.

The corking machine

Then it was a taxi back to Beaune for lunch at Loiseau des Vignes, which ACC with deliberate understatement had referred to as a "wine bar" - it turned to be a very spacious one Michelin star restaurant next to poshy-posh Hotel le Cep, whose doormen assumed we were guests when G and I got out of the taxi with our suitcases.

They have a large range of wines by the glass so we were all able to have a different white with our starter, then we shared a bottle of the "house" Chambolle Musigny with our main course. There was quite a contrast with the Odoul-Coquard Chambolle of the previous evening, indicating that it was more in the Morey-St-Denis style. Fortunately I like both, but typique Chambolle is particularly elegant and charming. The four course set lunch was 29 euros a head, stunning value. It was a really great place to have our last meal, and I hope to return soon. Sadly we had to leave the others there and made our way to the station, via the marc shop to get another bottle of 66 marc.

All in all, it was a great trip with just the right mixture of activities. The only disappointment was that some of the wine shops were closed so we didn't get as much to bring back as we have done in the past. Guess I'll just have to go back soon!

Monthelie 1er cru Les Vignes Rondes 2007, Francois d'Allaines

Having previously had two wines by d'Allaines and found them mediocre, I wrote here that I wouldn't be bothering with this domaine in future. I managed to forget that when I was in the shop in Meursault, and kicked myself when I got back. Still, it was only about 18 euros so not the end of the world.

I had not 'fessed up to G beforehand, but when I eventually did, he of the wine aspergers memory said he had been perfectly aware of the situation! So we both had low expectations.

We decanted it for around half an hour. On the nose it was agreeable, with notes of summer pudding. G described it as pretty. Very '07. On the palate it was perfectly pleasant but G said it was not congruent with the nose, as it had more tannin than you'd expect. It stood up well to venison steaks. I found it hard to think of anything to write about it - it was just not very exciting. I see that's exactly what I said about their St-Aubin too! It went down easily enough but overall, still only a 7.

This time, I really will try to remember not to bother buying any of their stuff in future!