Recent drinking round-up!

AduV is still alive! Just haven't been feeling much of an urge to write a cheery blog at the moment with everything that's been going on. But there's light at the end of the tunnel and some interesting booze has been going down. 

This will be a mostly pictorial report as I haven't been making detailed notes on the whole, with one notable exception below. 

In order of aperitif to post-prandial:

I randomly ordered this Cornish Pastis along with a rum order from BBR. I quite enjoyed it! It wasn't too sweet and G compared it to an ouzo rather than a pastis. It brought back happy memories of sitting outside at a bistrot in Lyon...

White Musar 2012.

This Bourgogne Rouge from Domaine de la Roseraie has been going down well - very accomplished stuff. 

What a treat! A half of 1996 Musar. For me, this was getting to the end of its drinking window. G noticed a lot of volatile acidity, and there was definitely a lot of brett. But it was a pleasure to drink and reminded us how much we like Musar.

The last of my red Meursault 1er cru Cras 2009 from Latour-Labille. What lovely stuff this has been. Reminiscent of a very good Volnay or I might even have thought it was Cote de Nuits with its black fruits. 

I think this was also the last of the Vosne Romanee Champs Perdrix 2010 from Audiffred, which has also been a complete delight and I'm delighted that I have three more vintages in my cellar!

A highlight just before New Year - G splashed out on this 2015 Auxey-Duresses from Coche-Dury. One of my desert island wines, the bottle has gone into the hall of fame on top of the kitchen cabinets. This had a heady, sweet nose of poached cherry - clafoutis or even Bakewell tart. "The fragrance arising from warm fruit" pronounced G. On the palate, it had a velvety texture and was sensual, rich and harmonious with a very long finish. It was bursting with flavour and certainly drinking now but we thought it would keep. Sweet berry compote heading towards summer pudding. A real treat and thanks to G for spoiling me. 

This half of Warre's 1983 wasn't too shabby either! I failed to make notes but do recall that for me it was on the drier side and quite fascinating - not as much fruitcake and dried fruit as some ports, but some interesting darker flavours like leather, tobacco and chocolate. I enjoyed it very much.

I plan to get some more wines out of storage fairly soon and look forward to seeing how they have been getting on... watch this space!

Dinner at mine, 14th July

A couple of weeks ago, ACC joined me and G for dinner here at AduV Towers. The heat wave had not yet reached its heights but up here in the ninth floor penthouse it was on the warm side.

We kicked off with this bottle of Domaine de la Roseraie Hautes-Cotes de Beaune 2017. As ACC had been gallivanting prior to arrival, it needed extra chilling and the slow cooker was pressed into action to serve as an impromptu wine bucket. This worked remarkably well! The wine was a pleasing pale gold colour, crisp and zingy. It was refreshing, middleweight, and quite floral, with a touch of honey and I thought it would go very nicely with fish. It came from the vineyard which we visited on this occasion and I was transported back to that very enjoyable day watching Julien waving his loppers about in the vineyard. Although it was certainly drinking now, an argument could be made that it would be better in a year or so.

ACC pointed out this detail on the label - only 190 bottles were made!

With our chicken, apricot and pistachio terrine we moved on to the main event, a vertical comparison of the red Meursault 1er cru Les Cras from Latour-Labille or Domaine Vincent Latour as it is now called. On the left we have the 2007 and on the right the 2015. The 2007 has been a firm favourite over the years but is perhaps getting a little elderly now and a reference was made to charming old ladies. It was well-balanced, stylish and elegant pinot, very Burgundian. The 2015 was much bigger, more masculine and more international in style. It was more fruity and spicy, and more crowd-pleasing but we felt it wouldn't ever have the finesse of the 2007. I believe the word "primary" was used. It was drinking now but would benefit from another couple of years. A fascinating comparison and thanks to G for putting it together.

With our berries and cream for pudding, we had this Monbazillac from Domaine du Haut Montlong, 1983, also provided by G. This was a beautiful apricot colour and was a perfectly enjoyable sweet wine with good acidity, but it didn't have any botrytis and I found myself hankering after sauternes. Still, apparently it only cost £10 so no regrets there. I've had worse Sunday evenings!

Dinner at mine, 2nd Jan

Happy New Year! I was joined by G, ACC and the Baron on Monday evening for a belated New Year celebration which was a very enjoyable way to spend the last evening of the holidays.

Proceedings commenced with this bottle of Meursault 1er cru Perrieres 2007 from Latour-Labille, donated by G. It was a beautiful golden colour, opulent and rich with a marvellous finish. It was still drinking nicely, but perhaps coming to the end of its plateau. G commented that it still had that core of lemon which you find in great white wines. Perrieres is considered one of the finest vineyards in Meursault and is a contender for grand cru status but luckily for us, it's still a more affordable premier cru.

With our starter of smoked salmon, we had this trio of half bottles of vintage Alfred Gratien champagne - 1998, 1999 and 2000. These came from the Wine Society in a particularly self-indulgent order towards the end of last year. A quick trip had to be made to Habitat in the afternoon to pick up enough champagne flutes for us to drink them side by side. It was worth it, because the vertical comparison was very interesting.

The 1998 was fully mature, rich and honeyed, and had a wonderful finish. Apparently it was "autolytic" which you can look up on Wikipedia or take ACC's word for it that it means like a digestive biscuit, with those yeasty flavours characteristic of vintage champagne. The 1999 seemed fresher and much more youthful, while the consensus was that the 2000 wasn't ready yet, remarkable as it seems. I have one more half bottle of each, so now the difficult decision will have to be made as to when to drink the rest...

We moved on to the reds with our main course - a Volnay 1966 from Bouchard contributed by the Baron, and this Pommard 1966 from Patriache which G had brought along. With a label like that, how could one resist? I failed to take a photo of the Volnay, and the Baron took the bottle away with him, but I do recall that the label said it was specially selected by the Financial Times. The FT knew what they were doing in those days, as this was serious old Burgundy, smooth and with lots of fruit still. In the glass (on the left in the photo below), it looked remarkably youthful.

The Pommard, on the other hand, had a distinct whiff of the sugar bag and wasn't particularly subtle. By this stage, as usual, my notes began to tail off and became illegible, but I think the general view was that the Volnay was distinctly superior.

With the cheese, we had the remaining half of a bottle of Maynards 40 year old port which I was delighted to find in Market Harborough Aldi before Christmas. Aldi have a tendency to knock out some excellent port at Christmas, and three years ago my father visited practically every Aldi in the East Midlands in a quest on my behalf for the 30 year old, which they were selling that year. The same shop came up trumps again this time. It had notes of toffee, coffee and chocolate, and was exceptionally smooth. Although it had been open for a couple of weeks and kept in the fridge, it was fine, and actually rather nice chilled. It went down very fast and reminded me how much I love tawny port!

G then nipped downstairs and came back with a big bottle of vintage kirsch, which was served on the rocks. This was a very fine digestif and we sat around imagining running our own wine bar selling similar rarities. That sounds far too much like hard work to me - think I'll stick to drinking them instead. Thanks everyone for a great evening and sharing such old and fascinating wines, a very good start to the year!

Recent drinking round-up

I thought it was time for a brief recap of some things we've had to drink recently.

Manzanilla Torrebreva, Bodegas Los Infantes de Orleans Borbon

I'm always a sucker for a half bottle of sherry. so when one of G's colleagues told him about this manzanilla which we'd never heard of, I decided to take a punt on a case of 12 halves. We weren't disappointed. It's lovely fresh, sharp manzanilla with a bit more bite than some, and cost £6.95 per half from this place. But I see that it's described as a bin end on their website so may not be available for much longer.

La Cote de Vaux, Beaujolais 2013

It's in a claret bottle but it's actually a Beaujolais! With a heroic label showing the wine-maker, Jérôme Balmet, surrounded by wine-making equipment. This appeared at a Burgundy Portfolio tasting a few months ago and the Baron and I decided to split a case between us. He kindly brought my half of the case round a few weeks ago and I got round to trying it last week. I'm really happy with it - it's light, fruity beaujolais, as opposed to the meatier style I often drink, and is only 12% alcohol. When I bought it, I expected to keep it a while but actually it's drinking really well now. I think it will be just the thing for spring. It costs £140 for a case in bond, so not breaking the bank either.

Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Bavard 2010

Another bottle-related conundrum... This is one of the wines I got out of storage recently and I was expecting it to be a bourgogne blanc, but when I saw it I immediately started thinking I must have got confused. Was it actually a bourgogne rouge? The label just says Bourgogne! I opened it to have a look and in fact it is bourgogne blanc after all. The bottle is just very, very dark - I assume this is some sort of UV filtered-glass. It's a richer style than some bourgogne blancs I've been drinking (i.e. Domaine Joly) and reminded us of a baby Chassagne-Montrachet. G commented on the mushroomy thing it had going on. It's drinking very nicely now, and went well with our soupe de poissons, which has become a weekly fixture at A du V Towers.

I've actually started stockpiling this stuff in case my local supermarket discontinues it (again).

Pommard Vieilles Vignes 2007, Domaine Latour-Labille

Part of G's haul from the 2007 vintage, we had this with a rack of lamb last night and it was smashing. It's quite delicate for a Pommard, made by Latour-Labille (now Domaine Vincent Latour) based in Meursault. It has a lot of style and finesse and is very enjoyable to drink - it has really hit its stride now. I see that we last had it in September last year and loved it then too. Seven years seems to be the magic number for this village Pommard.

Finally, I enjoyed reading an interview with Isabelle Legeron this week about natural wines, and the comments make interesting reading too. I think a lot of rubbish is talked about these wines, and it doesn't help that the terminology is so woolly. In my opinion, it's a mistake to generalise about them - some are great while others which I've tried didn't appeal to me. But my favourite wine-makers use a sparing hand with the sulphur, and anything that is made in small quantities by people taking lots of care and effort and allowing the wines to express their terroir seems like a good thing to me.

Dinner at mine, 16th October

The other night, since D was in town, we invited him round for dinner at ours.

We kicked off with my last bottle of this St Aubin 1er cru Les Frionnes 2007 from Latour-Labille, which I've enjoyed very much. It has given us a lot of pleasure with its fresh, lemony flavours, and went very well with the wild smoked salmon I'd got from the 'Fridges.

Then, much excitement as D provided two reds.

Spot the difference!

They were both 1968 cabernet sauvignons from Inglenook in the Napa Valley, but one was the wine from a specific cask while the other was the blended commercial release. Not often you get to do a horizontal like this. They had been lurking in D's cellar for the best part of 40 years, I believe.

The commercial release

The specific cask

Cask H12, to be precise!

Our comparison was only marred by my disgraceful lack of the appropriate glassware, so we had the cask wine out of Riedel Bordeaux glasses but the commercial release had to make do with Burgundy glasses. (Memo to self: must buy more Bordeaux glasses in near future!)

The two wines were surprisingly different. Cask H12 had held up very well and had recognisable cabernet fruit and good structure, while the commercial release had more signs of age - it had a certain raisiny quality which I associate with older wine, but was very enjoyable and I described it as a guilty pleasure. G came up with a good phrase to encapsulate the difference - imagine two sisters of different moral character - H12 was Prudence while the commercial release was Ruby.

Afterwards we moved on to a bottle of Cockburns 1950. I wasn't familiar with this but G had heard it described as an excellent "lady's port" which sounds objectionably sexist at first sight but what it really means is: relatively light, delicate, with finesse rather than power. It was lovely, in fact.

With the port we had a rather fine cheeseboard which came from Beillevaire in Montpelier Street. It appears that this has now become some sort of joint venture with a wine company, Spirited Wines, and has been rebranded as (if memory serves) "Bistrot des Vins" which practically gave me a heart attack the first time I noticed it, but fortunately all is well and it continues to sell the excellent selection of cheese to which I have become accustomed. I'd visited on the previous Sunday and picked up this lot - some Roquefort, a Chablis, some Beaufort and a Montrachet. The Montrachet is a goats cheese made by just one producer which is described here as "200g of pure happiness".

I was particularly delighted with the way the Chablis, which is very similar to Epoisses, oozed across the cheeseboard during the course of the evening.

Oozy 9 mm

Another great evening and many thanks to D for sharing his rare treasures with us.

In other news, tomorrow I'm off to Burgundy for an action-packed week of tastings and meals out. Am very excited and there will be a lot to write about when I get back. A bientôt!

A couple of reds drinking nicely now

This week, even though it's been quite warm, we've mostly been drinking red wine. I'll need to get some more bourgognes out of storage soon at this rate!

On Sunday night G returned from the rural idyll bearing this Pommard Vieilles Vignes 2007 from Domaine Latour-Labille. It was glossy and a lovely dark colour. On the palate, we found it juicy, succulent, elegant and supple - G described it as "singing". There are times when I find Pommard a bit too heavy and powerful, but Latour-Labille are based in Meursault and it shows. We've loved their red Meusaults and this exhibited similar finesse. It was drinking absolutely perfectly now.

Then on Tuesday night we had this bottle of Bourgogne Rouge from Meo-Camuzet, a recent auction find, from the fabled 2006 vintage (this is sarcasm, the Wine Soc are forever going on about what a great vintage it was, when I saw for myself that it wasn't. "I was there, where were you" etc. etc.).

Again, it had a dark colour, but this time that was a sign of its Cote de Nuits heritage, as Meo-Camuzet are based in Vosne-Romanee. I got masses of black cherry on the nose and G mentioned pear drops. The palate was congruent but for me there was some bitterness on the finish, like black coffee, while G thought there was tart cranberry fruit. It grew on me as time went on, suggesting that it might benefit from a few minutes in the decanter, and it went very nicely with our sausages.

In other news, I've followed in the footsteps of a certain ACC onto Twitter and can be found spouting further nonsense there at twitter.com/amatriceduvin - but this blog will certainly continue, not least because I can't fit all our pretentious tasting notes into 140 characters...

Dinner at mine, 19th July

It was a baking hot evening last Saturday. London is experiencing a mini-heatwave or perhaps the long-promised "barbecue summer". I even had to excavate the fan from the cupboard where it has been hidden for the last 11 years. ACC and the Baron arrived, the latter resplendent in an orange work-coat as modelled by a certain electronic duo who we went to see recently - very chic.

We promptly got down to business with a cold glass of fizz and some Roka Cheese Crispies.

This was the fizz that G picked up in Mi Fugue, Mi Raisin in Paris - Demarne-Frison Lalore, Brut Nature, Blanc de Blancs. It went down very well and I don't think I'd have realised it was a low dosage champagne if others hadn't pointed it out. Enjoyable and a bit different.

For our starter, since it was so hot, we'd come up with the idea of ham and melon to be served with a glass of cold Amontillado. The ham was Jamon Iberico de Bellota from Waitrose, which was runner-up in the FT mag's taste test a few weeks ago, but a fraction of the price of the winner. The melon had been chilling in the fridge all afternoon, and the sherry was this Amontillado Napoleon from Hildalgo, in a useful 50cl bottle (procured from the Burgundy Portfolio). I was really pleased with how well this combination worked.

G was in charge of the main course and he cooked some excellent wild sea trout with potatoes and peas. We drank this Saint-Aubin 1er cru Les Frionnes 2007 from Latour-Labille with it which was my penultimate bottle. I've really enjoyed drinking this wine and am so happy it turned out how I hoped it would.

Cheeses, controversially, were from Paxton and Whitfield in Jermyn Street rather than the usual place. This was due to assorted public transport problems that afternoon which led me to decide that discretion was the better part of valour. I hadn't been into Paxton for years and they immediately received a big black mark for not having an Epoisses ready to eat that evening, but at least they admitted it, and the substitute was quite interesting. They do have a great range but I'm still loyal to Beillevaire, tube and buses permitting. 

With the cheeseboard we drank this Chambolle-Musigny 2006 from Roumier, brought by ACC. We chilled it slightly, as it was such a hot day. It was wonderful mature Chambolle, sensual and with lots of interesting meatiness - G and I both felt it was better than the Mugnier of the same vintage we'd had at Taillevent two weeks earlier. This has been noted for future reference. Enormous thanks to ACC for sharing it with us. 

For pudding we had some Eton mess and a bottle of this German riesling auslese provided by G, which was relatively light and fruity and complemented the pudding well. Then we scoffed some delicious Charbonnel et Walker chocs provided by the Baron, along with coffee and Felettig vieux marc de bourgogne - a great end to a wonderful evening.

Stuff out of storage

One of the drawbacks of living in a postage stamp-sized studio flat boutique penthouse in zone 1 is that there's not much space for one's personal wine cellar. Some get round this by storing their wine at the rural parental residence, but I find it easier to use the storage facility at Locke-King Vaults. My wine lives in a WWII air raid shelter until I decide that the joyous day has come and it can be taken out of storage.

It all runs very smoothly right up to the point where the delivery man encounters the porter of my building who 99.9% of the time makes a giant fuss about doing his job i.e. taking in parcels. Fortunately, last Friday I had a random day off work so when the porter decided to ring me at 7.45 a.m. I was able to don a hasty dressing gown and take delivery of my three boxes.

First up was a case of this Morgon 2009 from Domaine Boulon. 2009 was a very good year for Beaujolais and this certainly hit the spot. Drinking now but with no rush, it was top notch Morgon and went very well with our Breakfast Pig sausages from Turner and George. It will see me comfortably through the winter, and at £90 in bond equates to a fully-paid up bottle price of £11.40 plus storage and delivery costs, making it excellent value. I'm looking forward to trying the very special Cuvee Pauline from the same producer, but based on this, I should probably wait a couple of years.

Then there was a six-pack of this white St-Aubin 1er cru Les Frionnes from Latour-Labille. This cost £120 for six, so worked out at £26.40 a bottle all paid up, not including storage and delivery. It was pale gold in colour and looked very nice in the glass. I got lemon and vanilla on the nose and G found that it reminded him of Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc, praise indeed. On the palate it was precise and classy, with enough grip to work well with G's signature lamb biryani. Again it was drinking now but there's no rush, although I doubt it will hang around. All in all, I was delighted with it and we thought it was probably about as good a St-Aubin as you're likely to find. We gave it a 9 on the Premier Cru Project scale.

The third wine was this Volnay 2005 from Comte Armand which I'd been looking forward to getting my hands on. I believe this came from Berry Bros back in the day. I bought a case, but on the stock sheet it turned out to be two six-packs, so I was able to get one of them out and leave the other in. We decanted it for 2 hours. It certainly looked the part, both the bottle and the wine which was a dark purple colour and very glossy. On the palate, it was very polished and we thought it was competing in the premier cru league. My case cost £180 in bond making it £20.40 a bottle all paid-up (excluding storage and delivery) but this was certainly £30 if not £40 wine.

However, if I'm honest, I found it a little on the "international" side rather than reflecting Burgundian terroir. Perhaps I've been spoiled by drinking far more expressive Volnays from Vincent Perrin. I found this wine quite hard-going, one of those wines where one glass would be enough. Still, we heroically persisted, and as we approached the end of the bottle it seemed to improve, and developed notes of black cherry. Perhaps it just went better with cheese. I think I'll tuck it away for a while and give it 3 hours in the decanter in future. At least the other six pack is still in storage and it can stay there for a few more years!

Recent drinking round-up, 31st Aug

G and I have been drinking a few bits and pieces lately which don't really need an individual entry (= code for I have been too lazy to make proper notes about them) but which I want to record here.

First up, these lovely halves of manzanilla procured for me by ACC of the Burgundy Portfolio. This is Bodegas Argueso San Leon Manzanilla, which I'm told is a step up from the Las Medallas from the same producer, which I've had from the Wine Society before. It's also a bit pricier. The halves look very smart in their box with the red capsule. Smashing stuff and very refreshing after half an hour in the freezer. I'm very happy with it and we've been getting through it at a rate of knots. Well, one has to make the most of the fleeting English summer!

This was a Muscadet sur lie from Comte Leloup du Chateau de Chasseloir 2007 from the Wine Society. It's a bit older than your average muscadet and claims to be some special cuvee, so we thought we'd try it as an alternative to white burgundy. It cost £8.95 but wasn't exciting and I wouldn't bother having it again. Top marks for jazzy string around the bottle though! I have no idea what that's all about.

Another white from the Wine Soc in the search for alternatives for white burg, as much as I love the stuff it's nice to have something different occasionally. This Saladini Pilastri Falerio 2010 was more like it. I think this was part of the mixed case of weird things (I hear a disapproving voice murmuring "les autres regions") that we got a while ago. The Wine Soc have moved on to the 2011 which is only £5.95. It was quite full-bodied and gutsy but good in the hot weather.

Then we have some reds. I've blogged about this Beaune 1er cru Clos du Roi 2007 from the Martins before. This was the last bottle on the rack and didn't disappoint, lovely classic Beaune.

Then a red I haven't written about before - a Meursault Rouge 2006 from Latour-Labille. I bought a case of this en primeur and got it out a few months ago. We tried it and, well, it wasn't that great, so we stashed it away in the hope that it was just going through its "sulky adolescence" and would come round in due course. What a relief to drink it the other night and find that it had done so - it's now delicious and soft with lovely fruit. There's no hurry to drink the rest but it's good to know I can if I want to.

And finally, this old friend - the Meursault 1er cru Les Cras 2007 also from Latour-Labille. This is wonderful wine and every sip is a pleasure. We think it's still a 9 but have no doubt that it's going to become a 10 - we had a debate about whether it's already reached that level. Given that the village level Meursault has taken 6 years to come round, arguably this should be reaching its window in a couple of years time, except that the 2007s are more approachable in style. Both of these red Meursaults are highly unusual as most vineyards in Meursault are planted with chardonnay. All the more reason to enjoy them while we can. I can't wait to try them both again in a few months' time!