SPNS dinner, 15th March

Last Friday we had another SPNS dinner at the Savile Club and I'm delighted to report that all members of the SPNS were present and correct for once!

My contribution was this Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs from Domaine Felettig, which was bought several years ago and had been languishing at the bottom of the wine rack as we had thought it would be interesting to try a bottle with some age on it. G bravely went first and gave a grimace, which I think created an expectation among the group that it was going to be terrible, but actually it wasn't at all. It was definitely on the elderly side with yeastiness and biscuity notes. Some detected a weird finish but overall it was considered drinkable and actually improved as time went on, although of course by that stage we had inevitably drunk it all.

P brought along a 1992 sauvignon blanc from Cloudy Bay which apparently he bought en primeur at the height of the hype. It was remarkably youthful and zingy with the classic elderflower nose, while D detected green olives. G said it was a marvellous survival and I would never have predicted that it would be so youthful. It was very kind of P to share his last bottle with us.

T contributed this Vina Tondonia rose 2008. It was a beautiful colour and had a lovely floral, herbaceous nose. D described it as bright and alive and P found it vibrant and great with goat's cheese, while T thought it was still a bit young. ACC wrote something in the book which apparently I'm not meant to quote but since I can't read his handwriting anyway there's no danger there. I found this wine full of character. T says it's still the world's best rose and he's the expert so I wouldn't dream of disagreeing

ACC had brought along this Pur Jus 2016 from Chateau Landra in the Ventoux and described it as pure and juicy, ha ha. It had what T described as a full bouquet, quite earthy, and on the palate was very fruity and powerful. It's a low sulphur wine and I found it dangerously drinkable but noticed it was 14% so have to be careful with that! It went well with food and T particularly enjoyed it, I think.

D had brought along something very unusual, a 1999 Small Berry Mourvedre from Cline Cellars in Sonoma. This was another 14% wine but less of a surprise in this case! ACC told me that mourvedre is a Rhone grape so it was very interesting to try this alongside the Ventoux. It was a very dark colour and hard to believe it was 20 years old, it seemed so youthful. It was complex and powerful with lots of mint and fruit.

Finally, G stole the show with this magnum of Harvey's Bristol Cream bottled in 1977 to celebrate Her Majesty's Silver Jubilee. This was a dark brown murky colour and quite sweet. I got notes of butterscotch and it went really well with my millionaire's pudding. G described it as coherent, old school sherry, really very pleasant and good fun. We all enjoyed it and polished off the magnum with no difficulty whatsoever. As ACC put it, God Save the Queen!

All in all, it was another very interesting and enjoyable evening and thanks everyone for your contributions and notes in the Book.

Dinner at mine, 17th Jan

Last Saturday night ACC and Baron McG made a long-awaited visit to A du V Towers for dinner.

To start, we had a Felettig double-bill - first this Cremant, which has a little bit of age on it now as it's been residing in my wardrobe cupboard for some time. It made a delightful aperitif for thirsty travellers from the SW2 area.

Then it was on to this Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Beaune 2008, which is showing very well at the moment. It's a wonderful golden colour, and has good weight and richness. I'm very happy with it, and with the fact that I have a further six bottles in storage!

G created two assiettes - one of saucisson with walnuts, procured from the cheese shop, and one of Roka cheese sticks, as no Roka cheese crispies were available in our local supermarket. This was rather aggravating especially after the shortage of Bath Olivers around Christmas and New Year. Waitrose, sort it out! First World Problems, I know.

On to the reds. I'd been saving up this Beaune 1er cru Pertuizots 1971 from Domaine Voiret, for a belated celebration of ACC's birthday. The level was very good and the dreadful label was promising. We know nothing about this domaine and it doesn't appear to be still in existence. But the wine itself was wonderful. and it had that old school power and sweetness. It still had it all going on!

With this we ate a tagine-style stew of lamb cheeks with dried apricots and prunes, and G got his Ottolenghi on and jazzed up some couscous with pomegranate seeds, mint and coriander.

Next up was this bottle of Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru aux Combottes 2007 from Domaine Odoul-Coquard. G went long in 2007 and we're now reaping the benefits. This was just starting to drink but G had "over-decanted" it by giving it 3 hours, and it didn't quite work with the cheese. We will do better next time, not decant it for so long, and eat it with a meaty main course!

It's alive!

I'd made it to Knightsbridge that afternoon to hunt down some ripe cheese which included this excellent Epoisses. It didn't last long...

With pudding we had this Carmes de Rieussec 2005 sauternes provided by ACC, the second wine of Rieussec. It made a very suitable complement to my panettone bread and butter pudding (although memo to self - more custard next time).

Finally, it was on to the remnants of the Marcs de Bourgogne which I brought back from Beaune in November - two Roulots. They were both smashing, in their different ways - the Hors d'Age was fine, rich and powerful, while the 1962 was much lighter, more elegant and even floral by comparison.

Some had apparently been up since the crack of dawn working on a certain En Primeur offer, and so it was time to call it a night. Said offer can be found here and there are many enticing wines to be had. I've spent several days dithering about what to go for this year, but am just about there, and off to order some right now! Bon weekend.

Lunch at mine, Sunday 9th March

Last Sunday, ACC, Baron McG and G joined me for lunch. It was a beautiful weekend and felt like the start of spring as the weather was sunny and warm.

Proceedings commenced with a bottle of cremant de bourgogne from Domaine Felettig, and G produced an Israeli fig liqueur - which I'm glad to say he had been given, not paid good money for - to put in it. I think it was better without, but you have to try these things. The cremant went nicely with some pork scratchings from Turner & George (previously the East London Steak Co) who are firmly up there on my list along with the Ginger Pig. I hope everyone's teeth survived.

Then it was time for some serious food and drink. To start, we had this bottle of 2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Les Folatieres from Domaine Bzikot. I thought it was wonderful, but G was less convinced and felt it lacked acidity. No accounting for taste.

To go with it, I had made this chicken, apricot and pistachio terrine the day before which was a great success even if I do say so myself!

Then we moved on to the reds. ACC kindly brought this village Beaune 2009 from Domaine Audiffred, which was as wonderful as one would expect. You can tell it's a Beaune made by someone who is based in Vosne, but that's fine by me. To go with it, we had a beef stew - I'd planned the menu before the weather suddenly changed...  

The piece de resistance was this 1973 Beaune Greves from Moillard which ACC and the Baron gave me for my birthday last year. This was amazingly good considering its age and the alleged poor vintage. It was very fine and still had it all going on. Thanks very much to both of you!

Finally, we had this Clos-Vougeot 1982 from Domaine Lamarche, which G picked up in a recent auction. It was noticeable that this had not lasted so well and had baked characteristics but nevertheless was very interesting to drink.

I failed to take further photos, but honourable mentions must be made of les fromages most of which came from Beillevaire - the Epoisses in particular was absolutely perfect, and of the excellent Charbonnel et Walker chocs which the Baron brought along, just the thing with a post-prandial espresso. All in all, it was a lovely occasion!

Bony dinner, 25th Feb

On Wednesday G and I braved the Piccadilly Line to Knightsbridge to Chabrot Bistrot des Amis for an evening with Fabienne Bony, the winemaker at Domaine J-P Bony based in Nuits-St-Georges.

Proceedings commenced with a glass (or two) of Cremant de Bourgogne, which is primarily made from pinot noir, although she's thinking about doing some chardonnay next year. This made a very enjoyable aperitif.

Then we sat down and had some Nuits-St-Georges "Les Damodes" 2012 with our starter of pork terrine. I was reminded of my first encounter with this wine at the City tasting a couple of years ago, when we tried the 2010 vintage and it was the smash hit of the evening. On this occasion Fabienne thought it was served rather too warm, and I agreed, but nevertheless it showed well with an enticing fruity nose, good acidity and general succulence. Damodes is on the north side of the village, towards Vosne-Romanee, and most of the vineyard is premier cru. Fabienne's part isn't premier cru, but as far as quality is concerned, it could be.

With our main course of duck with honey on a bed of Puy lentils (which was delicious) we had the jewel in the crown, Nuits-St-Georges Les Pruliers 2010. Fabienne approved of the duck combo as she and her husband often drink these wines with duck. Pruliers is a premier cru, in the middle of a group of premier cru vineyards further south. For me, this had a massive hit of blackcurrants and was very smooth, really great. I sometimes find NSG hard work, but these wines are much more approachable and enjoyable to drink than most! They are in a softer, more charming style with plenty of finesse, rather than tannic monsters.

With the cheese, a Rocamadour supplied by my favourite cheese shop down the road, we had some Passetoutgrains 2009. This was very different from the NSGs, as you'd expect, and there was some controversy at the decision to drink this with the cheese, but I think it was absolutely correct - the "farmyard aromas" worked very well with the chevre, and this was packed with flavour. It's unusual for a Passetoutgrains in that it's 1/3 gamay and 2/3 pinot noir - the proportions are usually reversed. I thought it was fantastic and excellent value at £13.50 a bottle if memory serves - my order sheet was rapidly completed and handed to ACC...

Finally, dessert was a glass of cremant de bourgogne rose with little pieces of fruit floating in it. My phone had died at this stage but J kindly let my take this photo with his. By this stage I'd already eaten the floating fruit. It made for a very pleasant, refreshing end to the meal.

Thanks to Fabienne and to ACC of the Burgundy Portfolio for organising this event, and to Chabrot for the excellent food. Finally, for those curious about the Slovenian accordion music channel, G wasn't making it up - you can find it here. I don't think it's actually 24 hours a day as it doesn't seem to be working at the moment but hopefully it will be back in action this evening...

Dinner at mine, Sat 7th Dec

Last Saturday, ACC, Baron McG and G joined me for dinner. The date had been in the diary for a long time!

We kicked off with a bottle of blanc de noirs Cremant de Bourgogne from old favourite Domaine Felettig, and some Roka cheese crispies. Public transport problems added excitement but fortunately G and I managed to exercise self-restraint and there was still some fizz left for our guests when they arrived. We thought this has really come on since we bought it, and is developing nicely, and G suggested that I should set up a cremant ladder and store it for an additional year or two before drinking. Tempting!

With our starter of wild Irish sea trout, we had this bottle of Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru les Caillerets 2002 from Lequin-Colin. I got two bottles at a recent auction and G and I had drunk the first on an earlier occasion and considered it impeccable. Fortunately the second bottle was too, and it was everything you look for in 1er cru Chassagne, very classy and a great match with the sea trout. Definitely a 10 on the Premier Cru Project scale.

Then it was on to the piece de resistance, this magnum of 1971 Echezeaux from Prosper Maufoux, which was another auction find and quite a steal. The level looked promising, and the label was authentically filthy.

What can I say about this? It was everything I'd hoped for. The nose was very sweet and remarks about "hint of the sugar bag" were made (by me), but ACC thought this was unfair, and that 1971 was just a really great year for red Burgundy. It was absolutely delicious and went really well with the slow-cooked leg of lamb and gratin dauphinoise which I cooked. Baron McG was pleased to see there was some redcurrant jelly to go with it, and the wine and the food did go very well together.

Then it was on to the cheeseboard... these were mainly from Beillevaire on Montpelier St where the delightful shop assistant guided me to something which she called a Chablis (I think this must actually have been an Affidelice au Chablis) and the most amazing 2 year old Comte, as well as a Selles-sur-Cher which was practically climbing up the wall, and the saltier of the two Roqueforts they have. We also had some Stichelton from Selfridges - two blue cheeses because we were drinking port. As it was a special occasion, I'd also made some of my signature exfoliating hardcore oatcakes...

A few weeks ago G had tipped me off that Aldi of all places were selling a 30 year old tawny port. As there are no Aldis round here, I asked my parents to look out for it. Resisting the temptation to launch into a lengthy comparative socio-economic analysis of the north Northamptonshire / south Leicestershire region, it turned out that Kettering Aldi didn't sell it, but Market Harborough Aldi did! Thanks Dad for getting two bottles for me. It came in a hilarious extra-bulky and heavy decanter and wooden box. Given the price, £30, less than most 20 year old tawnies, we thought it was very respectable, and it did indeed come across as more complex than a 20 year old. I shall enjoy drinking the rest of it, and it has the added advantage that it will keep for a while after opening, so doesn't have to be guzzled in a hurry.

Alongside this, we had an unexpected treat from ACC, some 1997 Quinta da Roeda from Croft. He served this to us blind, so we had the usual couple of minutes of inaccurate guesses before its identity was revealed. When we found out what it was, it made sense - it had felt as though it might be 15-20 years old. It was fun to contrast the two styles.

We rounded off with an assiette de chocolat created by G, including some lovely Prestat chocolates supplied by Baron McG. All in all, a really fun evening. I hope 2014 brings more of the same!

Vintage Variation tasting, 12th Aug

On Monday, we twirled our imaginary ironic moustaches and made our way to Shoreditch to attend this tasting held by ACC of the Burgundy Portfolio in Leila's Shop on Calvert Avenue.

I'd never been to Shoreditch before; the extent of my roaming in that direction has been Old Street "silicon roundabout". As we approached it on Monday night, we walked along a section of Old Street full of shabby 1960s office blocks with a dreary air of hopelessness. I decided that the area reminded me of Wellingborough town centre, and G said that he'd been thinking of Peterborough. Maybe the geeks are too busy developing killer apps to notice the architecture.

Fortunately things looked up fairly quickly on the other side of the roundabout and Shoreditch seemed similar to the nicer bits of Clerkenwell, with interesting warehouses and Victorian buildings, but with a side order of Vietnamese cafes and trendy bars. Eventually we found the venue, which turned out to be a charming cafe down the far end of a quiet side street. A cheery group including several familiar faces were getting stuck in to a choice of two cremants de bourgogne - either the normal or the rose from Domaine Jean-Pierre Bony. I opted for the rose which I've tried before and liked. I didn't really pay a huge amount of attention to it but it went down a treat.

After some preliminary chit-chat, we took our places at the table. This was a sit-down tasting, which is my favourite kind as I find I can concentrate better, get to listen to ACC's take on the wine and anecdotes about the wine-makers, don't have to sharpen my elbows to get to the booze, and can make proper notes. Also, we had some food, which helps put the wine in context. On this occasion there were wooden boards bearing cheeses and saucisson, alongside bread, cornichons and crisps. G was ravenous and within minutes had practically eaten his own body-weight in Comte and saucisson.

The theme of the tasting was vintage variation and for the most part we drank pairs of the same wine from different vintages. The first pair was the Petit Chablis from Domaine Nathalie and Gilles Fevre, the 2011 against the 2012. We were supposed to drink from young to old, and therefore pour the young wine into our left glass and the old wine into our right glass. This required a surprising amount of concentration every time the wine went round and somehow seemed counter-intuitive. I wonder if this has something to do with the fact that we're used to reading from left to right and therefore unconsciously expect the older thing to be on the left and the newer thing to be on the right. Who knows.

The 2012 had only been in bottle for 3 months, while the 2011 had been in bottle for 15 months. I liked the fresh, lemony nose on the 2012 and found it quite sharp on the palate, which made me think it will be good in a few months' time. The 2011 was definitely drinking better now, but wasn't quite as crisp. G and I agreed that we preferred the 2012 but opinions around the table were mixed.

Then we tried the 2009 and 2010 Bourgogne Blanc from Domaine Florent Garaudet. This domaine is in Monthelie which is on the other side of Volnay from Pommard, and not a very well-known appellation. We visited the domaine back in January and came away with the impression that Florent is very passionate and even obsessive (in a good way) about his wine.

We'd tasted the 2010 at the white burgundy and port tasting a few weeks ago, and I liked it then. I liked it this time too - it was well-balanced and precise. We were less keen on the 2009 - G described it as "butch" and I thought it lacked the special quality of the 2010.

Then we tried the 2008 vintage of the same wine and this was very impressive, drinking very well now and with a great finish. Florent Garaudet is only in his early 20s and ACC thinks that he's one of the great stars of the future. He might just be right.

Next we tried two viogniers from Domaine de Sermezy which is in Beaujolais. The 2012 had a very strong smell of pear drops on the nose, which was perhaps a little too powerful. And sadly the 2011 was corked - it was fizzy but there was also an underlying mouldy sock thing going on. This was a shame, as ACC said the 2011 is generally better than the 2012.

Then it was on to the reds. First, we compared the 2010 and 2011 Moulin-a-Vent "Mortperay" from Domaine Benoit Trichard. I preferred the 2011 - it had a lovely nose but was not yet knitted together. ACC said it had a purity of fruit and more polish. We followed it up with the 2009 of the same wine, which was drinking now. I liked it but thought it perhaps wasn't as pretty as the 2011. Also, I've had a lot of the 2009 Moulin-a-Vent "L'Exception" from the same producer, so am staying loyal to that.

Finally, the highlight of the tasting: two vintages of Nuits-St-Georges 1er cru Les Pruliers from Domaine Jean-Pierre Bony, the 2010 and 2011. For me, again, the 2011 was the winner - it had an absolutely beautiful nose. It had lovely cherry fruit and was very elegant, with a wonderful finish. This will be first-rate when it's ready, and I succumbed to a half case to be tucked away for 10 years. I don't think I'll regret it. Thanks again to ACC for another fascinating tasting.

Miscellaneous autumnal ramblings

No particular theme this week but another catch-up on bits and pieces.

New sherry alert! I came across this in Waitrose and it immediately jumped out at me due to the resemblance to the wonderful sherries Dad gave me for Christmas last year (see here). It's made by Gonzalez-Byass and is called Delicado. It's a limited edition fino and someone more conscientious than me has reviewed it properly here. It's £13.99 for a 50cl bottle which is an excellent size in my opinion, allowing generous portions for two over two evenings. Quite expensive for a fino but we felt this was worth it so I'll be back for more in due course if it's still there.

While on the subject of aperitifs, at long last the Ali Boit Boit et les 40 Buveurs has shipped, just in time for winter! Never mind - we didn't have much of a summer anyway. This is a wine I first tried back at the beginning of the year. It's made by Agnes Paquet (NB viticultrice) and is a sparkler, a 50/50 mixture of Aligote and Chardonnay. There's some technical stuff on her website here about how exactly it's made, and I'm not sure if it's technically a cremant de bourgogne or not, but the take-home point is that it's just 8% alcohol. I don't think I would have guessed this if I didn't know already, but it certainly is quite light in style and I'm very happy with it. The fact that it comes with a crown cap makes it even more perfect for quaffing on a park bench.

We've continued to drink up G's haul of old Hugels and very pleasant they have been too.

This Bourgogne Rouge 1998 from Domaine Maume, which is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, also arrived and was fascinating. It was lighter and more acidic than I expected, almost piquant. Looking forward to drinking the rest of it.

After my disastrous adventures in cider the other week, I read an article in the Grauniad about perry which encouraged me to try the stuff. We had Henry Westons 2010 vintage against Waitrose 2011 vintage. Both were dry and relatively strong but the Henry Westons beat the Waitrose in my opinion. The Henry Weston cider wasn't bad either, so now I know what to go for in future.

Adventures in cooking: I found that the East London Steak Co, which I use as an occasional alternative to the Ginger Pig, sell legs of mutton, so I got some and did it in the slow cooker.

G made his "signature" biryani with the leftovers, which was excellent, as the mutton was less fatty than lamb.

Last week my boss brought back some quinces from his country estate so after several days had passed with me looking at them and them looking at me, eventually I found a Nigel Slater recipe (here) and after reading his column out loud in a fey voice as per tradition, we cooked them. They were amazing. I shall now have to drop some hints that I'd like some more...

Today I attempted to make granola cupcakes. These consist of flaked almonds, dessicated coconut, chopped up unsulphured dried apricots, butter and honey. Unfortunately they fell apart as I took them out of the tin so it's back to the drawing board - but they taste bloody delicious.

Normal service will be resumed this week as I have two dinners out in a row - a Vincent Perrin tasting and the next SPNS dinner. Tickets have also been booked for the New Year outing to Burgundy. So lots to look forward to!