Sunday, December 20, 2015
Lunch at Le Verre Volé, 31st October
On Saturday morning we were up early. ACC dealt with the gite owner while I dragged the suitcases down the alleyway - Monsieur Parize wasn't taking any risks with his people carrier - and had some weather chat in French. Fortunately by this stage I'd remembered the word for fog (memo to self: brouillard), and confidently told M. Parize that the fog was never like this in London. I was subsequently proved completely wrong when I got home and the next few days were incredibly foggy!
We arrived at the station in plenty of time so had some croissants and a coffee in the cafe nearby. There was some excitement when it appeared that our train didn't exist, but it turned out that actually the display was showing the wrong destination and all was well although it was running a bit late - they still seemed to be having trouble on the line. We were on the slow train which I'd booked, controversially, but I actually thought it worked well as it avoided having to change at Dijon and was emptier and more relaxed than the TGV.
We arrived at the Gare de Bercy, which is very close to the Gare de Lyon, only about half an hour late, and hopped in a taxi to our lunch destination, Le Verre Volé. This turned out to be a biodynamic wine shop / bistrot, with tables crammed in. In some ways being late was quite good as it was emptying out slightly when we arrived.
It reminded me of Caves Madeleine under the old regime where the wine is displayed on shelves around the room. I'm not sure if it's still the same as I haven't been back to Caves since it changed hands, although Lolo was complimentary about it in this month's issue of Bourgogne Aujourd'hui .
To drink, we went for this Cote de Brouilly from Laurence and Remi Dufaitre which was really excellent. It went very well with my hearty main course, and it was hard to believe that you could pack so much flavour into a wine that was just 12% alcohol.
We had a cheese plate between us to finish. The yellow stuff in the middle is butter!
It was a very enjoyable lunch, and then we went round the corner and along the Canal Saint-Martin to Chez Prune for a post-prandial Ricard. I hadn't been to Chez Prune before either, but it turned out to be a lively bar with a funky decor and was good for people-watching. Then it was time to head over to the Gare du Nord. We'd planned to get a taxi but inevitably there were none to be found, and it soon turned out that there was some sort of demo going on which meant the main road was closed.
Inevitably at this point ACC's suitcase started making a worrying squeaking noise. It wouldn't be a trip to Burgundy without something like this happening. Anyway, all was well, I believe the suitcase survived and I was in plenty of time to catch my train, while ACC had other things to do in Paris so we said goodbye at this point. It had been another action-packed trip and I came away very much looking forward to getting some 2014s in my cellar. Many thanks to ACC for organising everything.
This will be the last post of the year so Happy Christmas everyone, and thanks for reading. We have a fun New Year's Eve planned including a mystery bottle (exciting!) so I'll be back in 2016 to report back on that.
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