Monday, May 27, 2019

Recent drinking round-up - whites!


As promised, back with a report on some whites we've had over the past four months or so. We begin with this Rully 1er cru Gresigny 2014 from Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial. I'm not entirely sure where it came from but G informed me that they are a top producer. It was a pale gold colour and reminded us of premier cru Chablis on the nose, with a lemony, chalky thing going on. It was serious, with good weight and breadth, but we gave it a high 8 indicating that it didn't quite reach the heights. G considered it a little short on the finish. Looking back, we had a bottle from the same producer about a year ago which had the same issue. That's still a decent score for a Rully.


I was delighted to get this Pouilly-Fume Les Pres Bessons 1986 from Seguin Pere et Fils at a most advantageous price in a random mixed lot at a recent auction. We were encouraged by the level and the wine itself turned out to be extraordinary. It had a wonderful aromatic nose and was bone dry on the palate, with interesting fruity notes of gooseberry and quince, and good minerality. A very successful combination of both richness and precision. G said it was the best Pouilly-Fume he's ever had. Sadly this was the only bottle, but I'm looking forward to trying other wines from the same lot in the near future!


About a month ago we had this Riesling 2016 from Herman J Wiemer which was one of our purchases in the Finger Lakes. This was very much in the Germanic trockenbeerenauslesen style, with an intense riesling nose and a juicy hit of lime down the middle. Other flavours of passionfruit and canteloupe were detected. It was concentrated, well balanced, accomplished and refreshing, and went very well with our salmon with chili, garlic and ginger. Looking back at our notes from the trip, I see it cost $19.50, which is an absolute steal. If I lived nearby I'd be tempted to buy it by the case... Need to get back to the Finger Lakes soon!


Finally, a few nights ago we drank my last bottle of Pernand-Vergelesses Les Belles Filles 2010 from Domaine Ludovic Belin, which I got out of storage last July. It was a nice, middleweight white wine and G described it as "completely harmonious". Given that it was nine years old and from a relatively minor village, I think we can say it was punching well above its weight. There's definitely a place for wines like this in my cellar as I suppose one can't drink Meursault all the time...

Saturday, May 18, 2019

Recent drinking round-up - reds!

I see it's been a while since I posted, but yes, the blog is still going! I have a few weekends in London coming up so there may be a flurry of activity in the near future.

Time to catch up on what G and I have been drinking and in order to make this a less daunting prospect I've divided the report into reds and whites.


Back in March we had this Santenay 1er cru Clos Rousseau Les Fourneaux 2010 from Domaine Bachey-Legros. It appears that this came from the wine shop in Santenay, and a price of 35 euros has appeared in my notes, but whether this was speculation or G's remarkable memory is unclear to me right now. Anyway, this had dark fruits on the nose and was a little lighter on the palate. It was a "vrai pinot", smooth and middleweight. Perhaps slightly rustic, certainly typique, it was drinking well now. We initially scored it as a middle 8 but it ended up being a high 8. The fact that I seemed to guzzle it without paying too much attention was a tribute to its drinkability.


This bottle was an altogether more serious proposition, and quite why I took a photo of it sitting next to an empty class is a mystery - giving a sense of our anticipation perhaps! This was a Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Estournelles Saint-Jacques 1999 from Frederic Esmonin. It brought back happy memories of a bottle of something made by Sylvie Esmonin which we drank at lunch in Chablis with Nathalie Fevre on a memorable occasion back in 2013. So much happened that day that I didn't even allude to it in my write-up!

Back to this wine, which I believe G got at auction. It had a lovely Gevrey nose, which we described as a melange of autumn fruits with bramble and G even finding a hint of rosehip. I'm not sure what rosehip smells like so am unable to confirm or deny. On the palate, my notes say "oh yes". It was silky, poised and congruent, and drinking perfectly now, with a lovely balance of fruit and tannin. The fruit was ripe but not blowsy and reminded us of poached plums with cinnamon, and the tannins were chocolatey. I detected a hint of pontefract cake. This was very serious wine, hugely accomplished and a wholly pleasurable experience. We were sad to get to the end of the bottle and gave it a top 9.


Another Gevrey provided by G, this time the 1er cru Aux Combottes 2007 from Domaine Odoul-Coquard. I believe this was his last bottle, and we chilled it for an hour or so in the decanter. It was lovely Cotes de Nuits pinot, smooth and glossy in that Odoul-Coquard style. It had notes of black cherry and liquorice and was really delicious, albeit at the back end of its drinking window. I've enjoyed the 2007s so much but I guess it's time to say goodbye now.


Earlier this week, I got some more wine out of storage, which is always an occasion for excitement. The fanciest of the bunch was this Nuits-St-Georges 1er cru Les Pruliers 2011 from Domaine Bony so we drank some the next day.

"This will be first rate when it's ready" I predicted back in 2013 and indeed this proved to be the case! It was at that tasting that I ended up buying a six pack, and je ne regrette rien. It was a lovely dark colour, and turned out to be ripe and succulent. It had the prettiness of the 2011 vintage but still had some power to it. I've sometimes found that Nuits from other producers can be a rather unapproachable tannic monster, but that's not how Fabienne makes them. It had perhaps gained weight in the intervening years as cherry had been replaced by blackcurrant and dark chocolate. The fruit, acidity and tannins combined to make a wine that was harmonious and drinking perfectly now. G and I gave it a 10 and immediately began plotting when we're going to drink the next bottle... very soon, I think!