Trip to Finger Lakes part III - Domaine LeSeurre

Our next stop was Domaine LeSeurre, run by Céline and Sébastien Leseurre. As the name suggests, they are French and in fact there is a French flag waving outside the winery. We'd had one of their chardonnays before as mentioned here and been impressed with it, so I was looking forward to this visit. We chatted with the girl behind the counter who told us that Sébastien is from Champagne and Céline is from Toulouse, and they met in New Zealand.

First up was a dry riesling from 2014, which was a mere 12% alcohol. This is aged in stainless steel tanks and was actually dry, unlike some. It had good minerality and I found it elegant but the next wine, the 2015 riesling barrel select, was even better. This is aged in French barrels for 11 months, which is unusual for riesling, and was bigger and more concentrated.

Then we moved on to a couple of chardonnays. First the barrel select 2015 which is also aged for 11 months, and was very fine, more classic chardonnay. But the chardonnay barrel select "no 2" 2014 won hands down. It's aged for 22 months and only 24 cases were produced. This is the wine D shared with us in September and it still had the same limey quality and was altogether very fine.

Finally, we tried a couple of reds. Apparently the cabernet franc 2014 is from one particular vineyard, and this is the first year it was bottled separately. This was light and pretty, and generally rather lovely. It went down easily. G made another reference to a charcuterie plate. Then we tried the cabernet franc 2013 which was made from grapes from two different vineyards. This was bigger, spicier, and had a great finish.

Sébastien actually dropped by while we were having the tasting which was nice, although we missed our opportunity to ask him about clones, which is something we'd wondered about with the chardonnay. This winery opened relatively recently and I would certainly say they are one to watch, bringing a French approach to the Finger Lakes vineyards and producing serious, elegant wines.

The view from the winery wasn't too shabby either

Trip to Finger Lakes part II - McGregor Vineyard

We got back in the truck and drove back to Hammondsport for lunch. It was incredibly enjoyable being driven around by D in this awesome vehicle and every time I had to haul myself up into the back seat I felt very rugged and adventurous.

We ended up eating at the Village Tavern Restaurant & Inn which proved to be just the job.

The pulled pork sandwich can only be described as epic and was absolutely what we needed. I'm getting withdrawal symptoms just looking at the photo.

Then it was off to McGregor Vineyard for the second tasting of the day. This was a more conventional affair. We sat at one of the tables in the tasting room and had the opportunity to taste five wines from the list for a trivial fee, five or six dollars, I can't remember.

Of the two whites which we tried, I liked the 2016 gewurztraminer reserve, which was very Alsatian in style with ginger, melon and pear. It was spicy and had a great finish, and we thought it would go well with Chinese food. It costs $25 and if I lived locally I'd consider buying it. The other white was a 2014 Muscat, which had nothing wrong with it but didn't really do much for us. 

Then we moved on to three red wines. First, a 2011 pinot noir reserve, which was a pale colour and had good fruit. It was relatively light with brisk acidity. We felt it might not have much of a future ahead of it, and $35 was possibly a bit steep. This was followed by a 2015 cabernet franc, which was perfectly fine, tight and well-balanced, but again I didn't find it particularly exciting.

We saved the best for last. The jewel in the crown at McGregors is the Black Russian Red which is made from a blend of grapes from Georgia - more about that here. We tried the 2013 which is a 36 month barrel reserve. This was powerful, complex and intense with a lot going on. It had black fruit and a great finish and was altogether a very superior bottle of wine. We thought it would be one to come back to in 10 years, and we know it's built to last as we had some older vintages with D. It costs $70 but it's worth it. This is really the one to go for at this particular winery and their pride in it is entirely justified.

Trip to Finger Lakes part I - Ravines Wine Cellars

G and I are back from our visit to the Finger Lakes, and we had an absolutely amazing time. We stayed with D who lives in the middle of nowhere with no internet or mobile phone signal, just lots of woods, peace and quiet. I can see why he likes it there so much.

We arrived on Tuesday evening and the next day, we drove out to the Finger Lakes for what turned out to be the first of three days of intensive wine tasting. Heaven! On our first day, we visited Keuka Lake and our first stop was Ravines Wine Cellars, which is run by Morten and Lisa Hallgren, who are friends of D. We were treated to a tour of the winery by Morten. This was on 20th Sept and they were in the middle of the harvest so it was very kind of him to make the time.

The winery was very impressive with its state of the art equipment and enormous stainless steel tanks, and we discovered that Morten had been to the wine school in Montpellier and spent a year at Cos d'Estournel. He's all about making wines for the long term.

Then we were treated to a tasting of eight wines and I can honestly say they were all excellent. The Finger Lakes are perhaps known best for their rieslings and we tried three of these.

The 2015 dry riesling had a lovely floral, limey nose and was zingy with good acidity, elegant and serious, with a great finish. I thought it would go very well with oily fish and at just 12.5% nothing to frighten the horses. The 2015 from the White Springs vineyard was richer, with peach and citrus and was very special, with a finish which lasted for minutes.

Then we got to try a 2007 riesling, which was very Germanic on the nose. Apparently 2007 was a warm vintage and this was close to its peak at 10 yars. It had a wonderful line of acidity down the middle, a great backbone, and showed that these wines are built to last.

Next up was a barrel-fermented chardonnay 2015 and Morten explained to us that he has a special technique with this, and 15% of the grapes went through a dehydration process. For me this had nuttiness and notes of toasted bread, almost brioche.

Then we moved on to cabernet franc. Morten told us they are trying to make the Finger Lakes synonymous with cabernet franc and put the area on the map. Apparently it's overtaken pinot noir as the leading red in the area, possibly because it's more forgiving. More on that later... The 2015 was certainly a great example of the genre, dark purple with lovely juicy fruit. G said it was crying out for goat's cheese, while Morten mentioned a charcuterie plate. It was lively and croquant now but could easily be put away for 5 years. I see Morten actually said it could be put away for 10 years!

After that, we had a cabernet blend from 2005. We subsequently found out that many wineries in the area make a blend like this and it's usually called "Meritage", some weird invented name which I'd never come across before. The example at Ravines was made from 50% cabernet franc, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot. My notes read that it smelled divine and G said it was "wholly successful" as a claret substitute. It had a cedary thing going on, lovely fruit and elegance. Morten said that they couldn't pursue the newer, more luscious style in the Finger Lakes and he's not interested in competing with Chile or Australia. Not arguing with that. This wine still seemed very young, and I reckon you could keep it another 10 or maybe 20 years.

Next we had another chardonnay, from 2014, which was unoaked. This was from the Argetsinger vineyard. It had a gentle florality on the nose and I detected apricots and stone fruit on the palate. Again it had an amazing finish. It struck me as being a gastronomic wine and we brought a bottle back which we had at lunch on Sunday, when its elegance really struck me again and it reminded us of an Auxey-Duresses. It went brilliantly with smoked salmon and was generally very classy indeed.

Finally, we tried this 2013 late harvest vignoles. This is a botrytised wine and they only make it when the conditions are right. It had a lovely nose of apricot jam and an amazing gooey, velvety texture. It had great acidity to balance the sweetness and again the finish was extraordinary. "Good god" said G. Morten told us that their chef was enjoying himself making things to go with it. I wanted some blue cheese right there and then. If I tell you that we bought two halves to bring back with us, that gives some indication of how fabulous this wine was.

This was a really impressive tasting and enormous thanks to Morten for taking time off to show us the range. I just wish we could get them in the UK...