Friday, February 26, 2016

Burgundy Portfolio tasting, 16th Feb

Last Tuesday I found myself on an impromptu tour of Highbury before I belatedly found the venue for that evening's wine tasting, the Highbury Library, opposite the Arsenal stadium. I assume that the name is a jolly jest as it didn't look much like a library!

Upstairs seemed pretty lively but I spotted some familiar faces in the downstairs room and headed down to join them where I was greeted with a glass of Chablis by ACC. This was a tasting of 2014 en primeur "Burgundies". The main Burgundy Portfolio en primeur tasting took place back in January at the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green, which was very enjoyable but difficult to blog about with at least 80 wines being shown. This evening was a more in-depth focus on some of ACC's relatively new discoveries.


The 1er cru Vosgros from Domaine Gueguen was our aperitif, It was drinking already but would keep, with good acidity, citrus and white flowers. It was unoaked and elegant, and seemed popular with everyone.


Then it was on to another 1er cru Chablis, this time from the Vaucoupin vineyard. This seemed more serious, and might need more time. ACC mentioned gunflint. My notes record more detail about the Gueguen's gite for two with swimming pool, which sounds like a great place for a retreat in the Chablis countryside!



We had a bonus tasting of this bottle of Bourgogne Blanc, which was also very good and retained the minerality of the house style.


Then, with a single bound, we leapt from the north of Burgundy to the south, with this Beaujolais Blanc from Domaine des Josephins. This spends 9 months in barrel and was distinctly richer. It was very quaffable and good value for money at £105 for a case of 12 in bond.


This Bourgogne Blanc from Domaine de la Roseraie went down very well. It's made in Puligny Montrachet, by the chap ACC went to visit in October while I wandered round the village taking photos. Only 100 cases were made and apparently a lot of it goes to Parisian restaurants. It wasn't ready yet, still not fully integrated, but Baron McG and I succumbed and decided to split a case between us.



This Viognier from Domaine des Josephins was a little bit different, with white peach, and seemed like a wine that would age well. It was was well-balanced and stylish, something for those who like something different to Chardonnay occasionally.

Food appeared at this point, some charcuterie and cheese, and we cheerfully dived in.


Then it was on to the reds. This Gorge Rouge from Domaine des Josephins is basically a Bourgogne Rouge, made from pinot noir. The name refers to a robin. It had lovely light strawberry fruit and was only 12.5%. I snaffled a case.


The same domaine also makes this Tete Noire - which apparently is some other sort of bird, not the rather unfortunate direct English translation! This is made from the gamaret grape, which is a cross between gamay and reichensteiner. It was much darker in colour and almost brooding. Some detected liquorice. I quite liked it, but suspect it divided the audience.



We moved on to a trio from Domaine de la Roseraie - a Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune, a Maranges and a Beaune "Montee Rouge". These ascended in terms of power and complexity.


The Montee Rouge in particular was very interesting but still quite closed and possibly the sort of wine one would come back to in 6 years. It was serious stuff, complex and concentrated with black cherries going on. Some of us were keen to have a tasting with some older vintages so that we could see how it would evolve.


Overall, it was great to consider some new arrivals in more depth and I look forward to drinking my new acquisitions in due course!

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