We were slightly early for our next appointment, so we spent some time hanging out near a giant car park in the middle of Morey-St-Denis . It's not a particularly big village, so I was mystified by the size of the car park. Someone had parked a giant camper van there and I thought if I had a giant camper van there would be worse places to hang out than the Côte de Nuits...
Then it was time to go, and we walked the short distance to Domaine Odoul-Coquard. I'd only visited once before, back in 2008. This time we received a warm welcome from Sebastien who seemed to be in a very cheery mood. I'd met him back when he was over in London earlier in the year and it was great to renew the acquaintance. When it emerged that this was our final tasting, he immediately said "Saving the best till last!"
Upstairs in the tasting room there were some new barrels, still wrapped in clingfilm, and a rather lovely painting - a vision of Morey-St-Denis as heaven, basically. Can't argue with that.
Then it was time to go downstairs for the tasting. We tasted ten wines altogether and unfortunately my pen packed up in the middle so some of my notes are not as detailed as they might otherwise have been, but for me the highlights were as follows:
Bourgogne Rouge - this is a recurring favourite at AduV Towers and this vintage didn't disappoint. It had that rich house style, with lovely sweet fruit.
Morey-St-Denis "Aux Chesaux". This was a great expression of Morey which often reminds me of black forest gateaux with its dark chocolate and black cherries. Aux Chesaux is a lieu-dit on the edge of the premier cru vineyards and for me this was premier cru quality.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Les Baudes. This was very perfumed and I found the palate surprisingly rich and big but Sebastien described it as delicate and feminine so maybe there was something wrong with my taste buds after that strange lunch earlier. In fact, by comparison with his premier cru Moreys and Gevrey, it was relatively restrained. I liked it a lot!
Finally, the two grand crus were amazing and I'd struggle to say which I preferred. The Charmes-Chambertin was elegant and delicious with great concentration. I managed to spill the remnants everywhere as I was attempting to return it to the barrel, and felt like an idiot, but Sebastien kindly said "C'est ne pas grave". The Clos de Vougeot had explosive fruit and an amazing finish. I managed not to spill any of it as the others watched - the pressure was certainly on - but hopefully I'll be allowed back. A final decision on these will have to wait for 13th January at the Burgundy Portfolio en primeur tasting which promises to be quite an event.
To sum up, I would say the house style here is quite flash. These are big, rich, glossy wines, dark and delicious. Merci beaucoup to Sebastien for a wonderful final tasting (and for the bottle of Gevrey which he kindly gave us as we were leaving)!
No comments:
Post a Comment