Lunch at mine, Sunday 20th Jan

On Sunday a couple of weeks ago, I was joined by G and ACC for lunch. Sadly J was unable to join us this time but hopefully next year we'll make up for it!

We started with this 2010 fizz from Quentin Beaufort provided by G. This has a label that my phone camera doesn't like much so I'm delighted that I finally managed to get a decent pic of it. It's made from grapes grown just over the border from Champagne and was mature and interesting, with nice fruit. It had something appley going on and a lovely creamy quality. Very good with a Roka Cheese Crispie.

Then it was on to some Puligny-Tremblots 2011 from Domaine Joly. This was a pale gold and had that classic Puligny nose. It was very precise, elegant and stylish and was fantastic paired with hot smoked salmon salad and rye bread.

Next up was a bottle of Pommard Croix Blanche 2009 from Domaine Parent, which apparently I didn't take a picture of. This was powerful, muscular and easy drinking, with black fruits, liquorice, coffee and dark chocolate. It only took 10 years to come round...

We rounded off with a bottle of Smith Woodhouse 1994 to accompany the cheeseboard. This went down very well with my family at Christmas, and on this occasion the three of us polished it off with no problem. It was medium weight with figs, prunes and liquorice, and went down very easily. Apparently this vintage got lost in the noise and was good but not great - anyway, I'm very glad I have a couple more bottles stashed away!

Reviewing my notes, I've finally deciphered some blurred handwriting which reads "Pop Goes My Heart" - I guess we must have been talking about Hugh Grant. I had not previously encountered this particular masterpiece... thanks ACC for drawing it to my attention!

Dinner at mine, Friday 18th Jan

Last Friday, I was joined by my friend J for dinner, as she was making a detour to London en route from India back to the US. Girl gets about. I rushed home after work in order to make gougeres. As usual, I forgot that they are supposed to be small and dainty, and they ended up enormous but still pretty damned good even if I say so myself.

To accompany these, we had a bottle of 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Morgeots from Domaine de la Choupette, which was top notch premier cru Chassagne, drinking perfectly now. A great combination!

We were then joined by S, J's friend, who it was a pleasure to meet, and I served beef carbonnade along with a bottle of 2009 Santenay also from Choupette. I've really been enjoying this wine, and think it's absolutely at its peak at the moment, with lovely red fruit. J was suffering from a cold but was still able to appreciate its prettiness.

J had procured this 1968 Barolo which we opened, but unfortunately it had turned to vinegar and the colour of it was something I never wish to see again in my lifetime. It went straight down the sink and glasses had to be washed thoroughly. I might add that this wasn't any old vinegar, but a remarkably pungent variety which lingered in my flat for the next two days.

But all came good in the end with the opening of this "A Midwinter Nights Dram" about which I had heard great things. It did not disappoint. This is made in Utah at High West distillery and is a limited release. It's finished in port and French oak barrels and that certainly gives it an edge over other bourbons, with notes of fig and dried fruits in addition to caramel and vanilla. I soon forgot my some reservations about the kitsch name and I'm rationing myself carefully to make it last longer. Thanks very much J for hunting it down and bringing it halfway round the world - my bourbon education has improved no end under your tutelage!

Burgundy Portfolio en primeur tasting, 14th Jan

A somewhat belated start to 2019 but the blog is still going! Apparently blogs are very 2005 and this is a fading medium as it's so much easier to post a photo on Instagram and be done with it, but this thing is now entering its 10th year so it would be a shame to give up now.

I spent Christmas with my family and then headed off to Pennsylvania to spend the New Year with D. I discovered that in the US they count down to the big moment not with fireworks or performing seals / human pyramids but with something called a "ball drop" in Times Square.... This did not sound particularly worth waiting up for so my own celebration involved a half bottle of Pol Roger brought over for the occasion. I was also dragged into the woods on several occasions during the trip, required to jump over many rocks and streams and somehow lived to tell the tale.

Back in Blighty, normal service resumed on 14th January when ACC held his annual Burgundy en primeur tasting, this year at the Cavalry and Guards Club. The porter gave me a suspicious look but my name was on the list so all was well. There was an impressive turnout from the French growers and a wonderful range of wines was on display, including both some old favourites and some wines new to the selection this year. It was also great to catch up with friends albeit only briefly because this is the tasting where I have to really try to concentrate, there's so much going on.

The following represents a whistlestop tour of my personal highlights, but this is not an exhaustive list as there were others where the photo came out too blurry to include, even by the low standards of this blog. Thanks to G for providing bottle-levitation services as we whizzed round the room and thanks to ACC for putting on such an enjoyable evening.

Lunch at mine, Sunday 9th December

On Sunday, I was joined by ACC, D and G for lunch. Things didn't get off to a great start when the chopping board fell over, knocking a pan of diced onion all over my flat - some of it even landed in a wine glass. Fortunately nobody was hurt and G had some onion in reserve so we were only delayed for 10 minutes or so.

Nerves were calmed with a restorative glass of Puligny-Montrachet Tremblots 2011 from Domaine Joly, which I'd recently got out of storage. This was a beautiful scintillating colour and was ripe and elegant with mouthwatering acidity and some tropical fruit going on. It was particularly excellent with the hot smoked trout kedgeree which G made as a starter. I actually glazed over for a moment before remembering I had company...

The raison d'etre for the gathering was to drink some more of G's auction acquisitions, which looked like they came from a venerable establishment.

First was this Beaune from Bouchard, which the bottle detectives guessed was from the 1950s. This was a very dark colour and had a lovely perfume but we all suspected it might have been strengthened with some syrah, and the sugar bag had certainly been applied with a liberal hand. It was relatively midweight, rich and smooth and hard to believe it was in its 60s. Apparently back in those days the negociants used 100% new oak so this was basically made the same way a grand cru would be made now. For £18 including delivery, nobody was quibbling!

The next two wines were more divisive, in that I parted company with everybody else in my assessment of them. But it's my blog, and I'll write what I want to.

First we had a Vosne from Domaine Pierre-Yves Masson. I think I was dealing with the main course or possibly the cheese as I heard murmurs in the background saying it was no good and needed to be chucked. Fortunately I got a swig in before any hasty action was taken and I rather liked it - rich and sweet. Others felt it had insufficient acid to keep it clean.

Then we went on to this Clos de Vougeot 1950 from Geisweiler & Fils, which was the opposite situation. For me, there was a strange pungent whiff on the nose, something vegetal, as if something was rotting at the back of the potting shed. Everyone else loved it and described it as fruity and complete. I guess it all worked out because I got to drink more of the Vosne, and the others were welcome to the Clos de Vougeot. I just wished T had been there to tell me what the chemical was that I was picking up.

To finish, D indulged us with two halves of sweet wine from the Finger Lakes, Sheldrake Point riesling, one from 2001 and one from 2008. There was no controversy here. We drank the oldest one first, which was actually in a 350ml bottle. It was a beautiful amber colour and absolutely luscious, with some botrytis and apricots. It complimented the lemon tart beautifully and was not unduly sweet but very well-balanced and not showing its age at all.

The Late Harvest Riesling from 2008 was even more amber in colour and sweeter - more dried apricots this time. I think we agreed the 2001 was better but they were both excellent. Thanks D!

Swiss Pinot Noir Society, Thurs 6th November

On Thursday night, after a long day at work, I was very much in need of a drink looking forward to the next SPNS dinner.

We started off with this "Le Petit Beaufort" 2015 from Domaine Alice Beaufort supplied by ACC.

This was fruity and refreshing. It was cloudy and slightly pink, and subsequent investigations have revealed that it's made from 100% pinot noir and hasn't yet undergone secondary fermentation so will be even better in due course! I found myself thinking it would make a great party wine for the summer. "Reviving after the day's travails" said ACC, while G referred to it as pleasant quaffing fizz, unserious in a good way. Comparisons were made to elderflower champagne, although D was getting strawberries. Either way, a very enjoyable glass to start the evening.

We moved upstairs and had two whites with our starters. First, this Lomond Cape Agulhas Snowbush 2008. This was powerful stuff and there was some speculation about the grapes involved, maybe semillon or pinot gris, while I found it reminded me of a Rhone white. G thought it had a lot of sulphur. Not something I'd have encountered otherwise and I believe P got it at auction for an advantageous price - good stuff.

My scallops went down a treat!

The second white was this 1959 Riesling Forster something or other (if anyone can make it out let me know). This had been lurking on my wine rack for a while but actually belonged to P, so was brought along as something of a wild card. I think it's fair to say opinions were mixed. P was very pleased with it, but for me it was a little dried out although if I pretended it was a sherry then I could get something out of it. G thought it would go well with cold roast chicken. Old school.

D had ferried across this Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1986 which was a real treat. It was classic Pauillac, drinking very nicely now and we thought it was on a plateau. It had an enticing nose and was quite austere but with those woody characteristics we love so much. Wonderful stuff.

Five bird roast!

My contribution was the polar opposite: this bottle of Dutcher Crossing 2012 Taylor Reserve from California which was given to me by my wine-loving friend across the pond and saved for a special occasion. It was quite a contrast to the claret - a massive, big, powerful, fruity wine. I think we all enjoyed it but definitely a bottle to share - at 15.3% one glass was sufficient. Thanks J for widening my horizons!

Vanilla cheesecake :)

Finally, G had brought along this Bonnezeaux 1985 from Domaine La Croix De Mission. He described it himself as a very pleasant but slightly elderly sweetie. Others were more effusive but I think G's description summed it up well.

For some reason there were no taxis to be found but after all those lovely wines we were feeling cheerful enough to stagger home. Another great evening; thanks everyone!

Burgundy Portfolio tasting at Baker's Hall, 21st Nov

On Wednesday evening, I made my way over to Baker's Hall for a very exclusive wine tasting held by ACC of the Burgundy Portfolio. This was a relaxed, sit-down affair of the sort I enjoy the most.

We started with this sparkling wine made by Quentin Beaufort which was dry and complex with some good age on it and was definitely up there with champagne, despite being made from grapes grown just outside the border.

This Chablis 2017 from Domaine Gueguen has apparently mostly been bought up already as quantities were low last year, but was very appealing, with minerality and richness. ACC said it had a certain fleshiness reminiscent of a pink grapefruit. G thought it was drinking already, and I found myself thinking it would be great with fish fingers.

Domaine Les Champs de Themis is a new find and this Bouzeron is made from aligote doree. I found it very interesting - dry, floral and almost grapey. ACC described it as "gastronomic". Cassis not required!

I'd had a heads up that this wine was going to be shown, although as this was the only bottle in the country we had to be self-restrained and not guzzle it all. It's a grenache from Romain Chapuis, made from Rhone grapes, unfined, unfiltered, low sulphur. At £18.50 a bottle paid-up I couldn't resist grabbing a couple of cases, as past experience has shown that these wines have a habit of evaporating from the AduV cellar.

This Mercurey from Domaine Les Champs de Themis had an amazing fruity nose which reminded me of Ribena, and was charming easy drinking, not rustic like some Mercureys.

The Vacherin went down very well too

We then had the excitement of a blind tasting. On the left was a wine that was relatively light in colour and very fruity and pretty, with notes of tinned strawberries, while on the right was a dark, intense number which needed more time. I jumped to conclusions and foolishly guessed that the one on the left was a Cote de Beaune and the one on the right was a Cote de Nuits. Wrong!

The one on the left was actually 2016 Vosne-Romanee Chalandins from Henri Audiffred. This was quite a revelation for me as I always think of Vosne as being big and rich, whereas this wine was relatively light and fruity. ACC said it was likely to close down soon.

G had the advantage of having been to Burgundy recently and guessed that the wine on the right came from Domaine de la Roseraie, which as soon as he said it was incredibly obvious. It was definitely in that very serious style, made for the long haul. It appears I bought a case en primeur, so I shall make a note to look into it in 2023!

Finally, we tried this wine from Ventoux in Provence which was another low-sulphur number made from 40% marsanne, 40% clairette and 20% grenache blanc. I enjoyed its minerality and it was suggested that it would go well with chicken with morels, or with cheese. Sadly we had eaten all the cheese by this stage so were unable to put this theory to the test.

A very enjoyable evening all round and can't wait to get some of that Grenat in my cellar. Thanks ACC!

Recent drinking roundup!

Apparently I haven't done one of these for a while, so as we hurtle towards winter it's time to get caught up and get rid of the mountain of empty bottles in the corner.

G and I drank this half of Alfred Gratien 1999 champagne back in July but it seems I never reported on it. "No harm in that" reported G, quoting my Irish grandmother, quite accurately in this case. It was fully mature, with notes of brioche and toast. G said it was almost custardy and it reminded me of a croissant. It didn't have many bubbles left and we felt it was at the end of its drinking life but it was refreshing on a hot summer Sunday. That seems a long time ago. I actually just discovered a lingering half of the 2000 on my wine rack this afternoon, so that needs to be put out of its misery in the near future!

Between August and October, we guzzled several wines from the Finger Lakes which D has been so kindly transporting back for us. This Red Newt Riesling 2013 from Lahoma Vineyards was lovely. Pale in colour, it had a Mosel style nose but was richer and spicier on the palate, with a burst of lime and G thought a hint of quince on the finish. It was beautifully made and had great balance, with a refreshing core of acidity. It's currently retailing on their website at $24.50 - compare and contrast with the 2012 Sawmill Creek Riesling for sale at Hedonism for £35.10. We wistfully imagined living nearby and being able to buy it by the case.

As an aside, I saw several red newts last time I went backpacking in Pennsylvania!

Another Finger Lakes white we tried recently was the White Springs Dry Riesling 2015 from Ravines. Regular readers will know we absolutely loved this winery. This wine was also pale in colour and had a nose of lime or possibly lime blossom. It was light, elegant and clean, dry but ripe. G said he felt a better person just for drinking it. It was definitely drinking now but we know they make wines for the long haul so it's possible it might get even better in time.

On to the reds - this Ryan William Pinot Noir 2012 amused me by stating it was 12.4% alcohol on the label. It was a dark colour and reminded us of the Cote de Nuits with notes of black cherry and black forest gateau. It was very easy to drink and even had something of a peacock's tail. G thinks it cost $27 which was excellent value.

A few weeks ago we had this Thirsty Owl Pinot Noir 2016, a name which always brings a smile to my face. This was apparently 12.2% alcohol and cost $17 according to G. He also remembered that the winery was founded in 2002 so the vines are young. It was really classic lightweight pinot, pretty but not particularly serious - a vin de soif. We served it lightly chilled, which worked very well, and we thought it was drinking nicely now but would last another year or so. G used the word "unforced" and we agreed it had an honesty about it, reflecting its terroir and climate, not buggered about. It actually reminded us slightly of Giboulot's wines, which is praise indeed. A virtually perfect Tuesday night wine, and again, one that we'd buy by the case if we lived nearer.

I had a trio of wines from the Wine Society recently too, just to see what's going on there. I failed to take a photo of the Cote Roannaise Perdiziere 2016 from Domaine Serol which was a gamay and came in at 12%. It was a little disappointing, to be honest. It lacked any interesting feral notes, nor was it one of those light, pretty gamays. At £16.50 it wasn't particularly great value and I won't be rushing back. I've just realised I actually tried the 2011 back in 2012 when it cost £7.95, and wasn't particularly impressed with it then either! Memo to self: read own blog before ordering wines...

This Naoussa 2016 was much more my cup of tea. It's from Greece and made from the xinomavro grape which is a new one on me, but was described as being like a cross between pinot noir and nebbiolo. It reminded me of a decent bourgogne rouge and at £10.50 it certainly hit the spot.

I cracked this "La Belle Romaine" from Chateau Merande last night. This is a Vin de Savoie made from a grape called mondeuse. It was fine but didn't wow me. It's only 12% alcohol, but at £17 a pop I'd rather be drinking that lovely Coteaux Bourguignon from Romain Chapuis.

We've started drinking this St George gin from California which was a gift from G's fan club in Grand Rapids and it has been going down very well in a G&T, with more floral notes than your average. The style reminds us a little of Plymouth which is always my go-to gin, so that works for me!

Finally, a couple of disappointments. G brought a bottle of Gevrey-Chembertin 1er cru Craipillot, 2001, Gerard Seguin round the other night. It had an amazing nose of liquorice, leather and earthiness, but when we came to taste it we found it rather tertiary (G's word) - it dried out on the palate and had a chewy finish. In the end we agreed we weren't actually enjoying it, and it went down the sink. The same thing sadly happened to two bottles of Combe D'Eve from Giboulot on Wednesday which broke my heart a little. Possibly being in the wardrobe over the hot summer didn't do it any favours. Must do better at maintaining stock rotation in future! Fortunately I have just got some wines out of storage so I'm looking forward to trying those soon.